The Best of Rome Semester - TOP TEN!

 

Part II is here! The following are my top ten favorite places I visited during my Rome Semester. Enjoy!

 

 

#10 - Sacre Coeur, Paris

 

This was a Heaven-on-earth experience. I think what made it special was that we were staying in the church’s guest house which was connected to the church itself. This meant that even after the church closed down for the night after 10pm Mass, all of the people in the guest house could come and go into the church via hall at any time for all-night adoration in the massive, darkened church lit by only candles and a spotlight on the monstrance. The experience was unparalleled! I could have stayed in that peaceful church all night long, despite my exhaustion. In the mornings, the nuns chanted the liturgy of the hours which was just beautiful. All of the prayers were solely in French (including the Mass), but that added to the excitement of visiting a foreign country. The church itself was beautiful on the inside and somewhat reminded me of Notre Dame (though less intricate), and the architecture on the outside was very unique, unlike anything I’d ever seen in Europe. The grounds were brilliant and even better was the view from the church’s steps from its place on the top of a very high hill, overlooking the skyline of Paris. I still think back on the peacefulness of half-living in the church at night and the profound connection I had with Christ, even in my darkest hours of anxiety and worry. He always made things better.

#9 - Delphi, Greece

Getting to Delphi was a nauseating ride through the mountains, but once we actually arrived there and headed on a hike to visit the archeological site of the Pythia, the entire class was enamored by the landscape of green mountains and valleys spread before us, all of which changed into fiery colors during the sunset and outlined in silver at night by the light of the full moon. During the day though, we hiked up part of the way of Mount Parnassus to visit the temple of Apollo where the Pythia herself would sit, inhale the vapors coming out of the ground (those weren’t there anymore), and give the oracle of the god Apollo. The size of the temples surprised me as I was not expecting them to be so huge. I think that Delphi’s archaeological site was the perfect compilation of all the types of architecture in the ancient Greek world. Delphi had a perfect small-town feel and felt very laid back. It’s a place I’d want to visit again.

#8 - The Vatican/St. Peter’s Basilica, Vatican City

 

No church in the world could possibly be as breathtaking as St. Peter’s Basilica. I was pretty much slack-jawed from the first moment of walking through the great portals. So many relics in one place was just overpowering! And everywhere you turned, a Mass was in session, so we couldn’t really turn anywhere without genuflecting. Everything was so grand and beautiful, I could almost hear the very heartbeat of the bride of Christ. We even encountered some Swiss guards, who allowed us to photograph them. What an amazing experience of being right at the core of the Catholic Church, where everything we believe in is summed up into one grand city.

 

　

#7 - The Cliffs of Meteor, Greece

 

From afar, these cliffs looked like a magical mass of smoothed gray rocks standing high above the rest of the green world. They became even more astonishing as we drove closer and once we were upon them, I could hardly believe the reality before me. You’ve never, and I mean NEVER, seen cliffs like these. They are perfectly smoothed over as if they had been eroded by water for thousands of years. Nestled safely and peacefully atop these cliffs were at least four or five Eastern Orthodox monasteries and convents, none of which were ever touched during barbarian invasions because there was no way to get up there except by a very long rope ladder which was lowered from the monastery. How these monasteries were built, I may never know. Nevertheless, it was so peaceful there and the sound of the wind in the cliffs was unlike any wind I’d ever heard. I think most of us left that place thinking, “I want to be a monk/nun.”

#6 - Assisi, Italy

Ah, the peaceful and tranquil town of Assisi. All chaos disappears in this beautiful, well-preserved town of the medieval ages. At night, the peace and quiet is more intense so that you can practically hear a kicked pebble click on the street from a block away. It was a place where I felt very comfortable walking around alone at any time of the day or night. It was also a place that inspired prayer, silence, meditation and contemplation. The hermitage at the top of the mountain overlooking Assisi was the height of all this peace (no pun intended). The views from the mountain and even from some of the high piazzas in Assisi were splendid, overlooking miles upon miles of the Italian countryside. It was like being on a retreat where time ceased to exist, but day and night still existed. God’s presence could be felt everywhere I went. The saddest part was that we only spent 24 hours there. I could have spent at least a week there! I could have lived here too, but I can only hope to go back someday.

 

#5 - Venice, Italy

 

Forget Paris. If you’re looking for a romantic city, Venice is where it’s at. Not that I care about romance in the first place, but this would be a definite consideration for a honeymoon. No cars, just boats, wide and narrow streets, and lots of bridges. Venice felt like another world all its own because of the lack of motor vehicles and it inspired the writer and artist inside me. Well, what place have I mentioned that couldn‘t be written about or painted? Anyway, the Island of Morano is a nice plus to the Venice area with its many glass blowing shops. Venice itself is filled with shop after shop of masks and glass. All of this and more can be found in high numbers at the famous Rialto bridge. Saint Mark’s Square is the other center of all the action and is a convenient place to head over to if you get lost in the knotted streets, which is guaranteed if you don’t have a map of some sort. I can only dream of living here.

　

#4 - Napflion, Greece

 

Okay, from here on out, everything is going to be next to water. I have to admit, it’s always been a love of mine which has only grown over the course of this incredible semester. Napflion was a fairly small yet enchanting seaside town. The best part, of course, was strolling leisurely on the walking paths along the sea-cliffs, very near to the water but high enough to hear the constant crashing of the waves against the rocks. These crashing waves were particularly beautiful up close as they would rise nearly 30 feet high when they crashed against the rocks with a deep thunder that shook every disk in the spine. But my! The magic of being perched on a high rock, close enough to the crashing waves yet far enough so as not to be drenched was unbelievable. At times, I could even stretch out my arm and let the crashing waves leap into the air and touch my hand, or possibly be caught in the spray of a particularly excited wave. Spending hours just sitting by the water’s edge like this or sorting through the many amazing rocks and shells on the beach made me appreciate the natural wonders of the world.

 

#3 - Sorrento, Italy

 

Campania literally stole my heart. This entire region of Italy is a gem to behold. Sorrento is among the hottest tourist spots in Campania. At pretty much all times of the year, it is buzzing with tourist activity. In fact, its economy relies almost entirely on tourism. I don’t doubt it. Despite it’s small size, Sorrento is a grand mix of beaches, parks and charming streets. During the day, the best place is on the marina, watching the boats come and go, on the clear-watered beaches, or somewhere along the tops of the cliffs, enjoying the overall scope of the bay. It was here that I officially decided that I wanted to own and/or live on a boat. In the evening, the streets come alive with talented performers, lit up shops, and bustling tourists. It was everything I expected an ideal seaside town to have. Even though I came at the height of the tourist season, the experience was incredibly pleasant. It had a kind of magic about it, so much so that I actually (don’t laugh) found myself looking out for the mermaids in the water. It was a dreamy town that I’ll never forget.

 

#2 - Cliffs of Moher, Doolin, Ireland

Maybe I should have said that all of Ireland was #2 on my list, but the Cliffs of Moher visit in the seaside town of Doolin was definitely the highlight of the trip. No camera could capture the magnificence of these cliffs. It was like something out of a dream. In fact, I felt certain that I had once, as a child, dreamt of diving off cliffs of similar appearance and height, sprouting wings, and before hitting the water, swooping up in a graceful arc, admiring the beauty of the cliffs. Of course, I couldn’t live that out here on these cliffs where many people have fallen to their death, either by accident or (sadly) by suicide. There is literally no wall or gate between you and the edge. It’s just you and the world at your feet with the long grass as velvet and the ocean thunderously crashing up a hundred feet high against the cliffs as if to make them bow. But these majestic cliffs will stand tall and proud, admired by all until the end of time.

 

#1 - Island of Capri, Campania, Italy

I think you knew this was coming since you’d gone all the way up the list and still hadn’t seen Capri make an appearance. But yes, this place was paradisal! I was on cloud nine every second of the trip (until I missed my group’s ferry back to Sorrento). I still find moments where I fall into Capri-sickness and find myself pining to go back. More than once during my Rome semester I had the crazy idea of maybe catching a train to Sorrento and take a ferry just to be on Capri again. Even if I had to stay in Sorrento, at least I’d be closer to that island of dreams. Now I know it might sound fairytale-esque, but Capri literally felt like another land on its own. I had to remind myself that it was part of Italy. As in Sorrento, I even had moments of gazing into the water, searching for mermaids. There was a certain kind of mysterious magic about the island that cannot be put into words. Maybe it was the brilliant blue water, the craggy rocks and cliffs, the charming town and harbor, the boats that came and went, or the sea-glass beach. Whatever it was, it captured my heart and made me fall deeply in love. Now, if I ever wish to momentarily revisit Capri, I take out the sea glass pieces I collected from there and inhale their salty sweetness. *sigh* I don’t think the nostalgia will ever desist.

The Best of Rome Semester (site #20 - #11)

It’s the end of the year now, and I thought that I’d go back through my study-abroad adventures with the University of Dallas. I have selected my top 20 favorite sites/cities in my travels. It was extremely difficult to pick out just twenty favorites as there were so many places worth mentioning. Here’s a look back on my fondest memories of Europe, from 20^th to 1^st place (tenth to first place will be posted later)…

　

Honorable mention -

Eiffel Tower

If not just to get this one out of the way, I had to have an honorable mention somewhere. The Eiffel Tower might be an overrated attraction, but it is most definitely a sight to see at dusk and at night when it’s lit up and sparkling.

#19 tied - Notre Dame, Paris, France

I had REALLY wanted to go visit Chartres, France to visit the famed Chartres Cathedral, but due to limited time and a shortage of days on Eurail passes, we had to skip it. Notre Dame was a great substitute though. Those rose windows were even more amazing in real life and the entire church was even taller than I imagined. It exemplified all of the things I expected from a gothic church: peaceful, majestic, and a feat of architecture.

　

#19 tied - Ostia Antica, Rome, Italy

Pompeii had been a really great place in the historical context, but for me, it lacked the picturesque appearance I had expected from an ancient site. Ostia Antica made up for that and then some. I think there is considerably more history packed into Pompeii, but Ostia Antica felt like a magical ruin, like Cair Paravel from Narnia. It would have been the best place to play the ultimate game of hide-and-go-seek, which some of us tried, but we were so caught up in the exciting little pathways that led into these enchanting little niches where the most obscure sculptures and ruins were found. If I’d had more time, I would have gone back for a day visit. Half an hour is nowhere near enough time.

 

#18 - Nemi, Italy

This is exactly what I expected a small Italian town to look and feel like. Maybe that is why I fell in love with it so quickly. It was also a great first impression of Italy (it was among our first class trips within the first week of Rome semester). This town was known for its strawberries and lavender, both of which can be found at many of the small shops lining the cobblestone streets. At the town’s farthest corner is a breathtaking view of mountains, valleys and a lake. I could have spent a whole day there, yet sadly, we only had a couple of hours. I’m still regretting not having gone back to try some strawberry wine.

　

#17 - Rome, Italy

 

Rome definitely made the list. It didn’t make tops on my list, but it certainly left a deep DEEP mark since I lived on the edge of it and visited the city at least once a week. My favorite piazzas were Piazza Venezia (pictured) and Piazza Novona. Of course other favorite sites included the Colosseum, Capitoline Hill, the Trevi Fountain, the Villa Borghese, and so many others. This history-filled city was packed with dozens of churches, sculptures and monuments, all of which could not possibly be seen in one semester. I was particularly fond of all of the sculpture I saw there, especially the ancient Roman copies of Greek sculptures. I was so inspired by the ancient artists’ work. Rome is the kind of city where you just keep discovering things. I could never become bored over this city.

#16 - Florence, Italy

 

Would you believe it? I liked Florence better than Rome. I mean, all of the most amazing Italian artists, architects and writers came from here. If you ask me, Florence is just as history-filled as Rome, except that it contains more baroque / medieval / renaissance history than Rome, all of which I am highly interested. It was not as difficult to navigate through Florence as I thought it would be (maybe easier than Rome in some ways). Florence Cathedral (pictured) was, of course, the big beauty of Florence. It took my breath away when I rounded the corner and saw it for the first time. The detail on it is amazing and the view from the top of the dome is also quite fulfilling. I think that Florence was more laid-back and peaceful when compared to Rome. If I had to choose between those two cities in which to live, Florence would be my town.

　

#15 - Lake Albano/Castel Gandolfo, Italy

 

I’m a big nature person, so to put Lake Albano higher on the list than Florence and Rome should not be that surprising. The lake was picturesque with the sweeping green hills surrounding it. Castel Gandolfo, home to some of the best wine in Italy, was the jewel of the houses and mini-towns poised on the edge of Lake Albano. Like Nemi, it was everything I expected a small Italian town to look like, complete with a fountain in the town square in front of the papal palace, where some UD students (not me unfortunately) were able to join the Holy Father in the Angelus on Sundays. A nice bonus was when we had our silent retreat at a quiet retreat house at the highest point of the hills surrounding the lake, with the lake itself at our feet and the city of Rome just beyond it. And it was no dream…

　

#14 - Heidelburg, Germany

 

Heidelburg was as charming as charming could be. From our view in an old castle at the top of a high hill, I saw everything I expected from Germany: colorful autumn leaves on the hills beyond, a snaking river with a red bridge, and a cozy red-roofed town spread before the castle (also reddish in color). The view was so beautiful, I think I must have taken the same photo at least a dozen times. The streets below were similar to the ones I saw in Trier the day before: shops everywhere and lively accordion music playing every several blocks or so. Might I add that fresh-baked German pretzels totally crush the competition against Auntie Anne’s pretzels at the mall.

　

#13 - Monte Cassino, Italy

 

Founded by St. Benedict, Monte Cassino is a beautiful abbey up in the mountains and is considered one of the first monasteries. It was such a gorgeous and peaceful place with amazing architecture and breathtaking views from their balconies. A peaceful presence could be felt wherever we walked. By the end of the visit, even some of the girls were saying they wished they could be monks so that they could enjoy a peaceful place such as this. I don’t doubt that St. Benedict’s spirit still comes to visit the monks and encourage them in their ways of prayer and work or Ora et Labora.

　

#12 - Amalfi, Italy

 

Almost too hard to choose between Amalfi and Positano as the better of the two, but one thing kept Amalfi from claiming the coveted #11 spot (see Positano). Amalfi had charming streets and shops and even had the historical church of St. Andrew the Apostle. There’s something particularly special about having a huge mountain looming above you as you go deeper into the heart of Amalfi, then upon your return to the harbor, you see the shining blue sea.

#11 - Positano, Italy

 

Like Amalfi, Positano had great streets and shops, but the reason it claimed a higher spot was because it bore a more enchanting aura than Amalfi. The curving walkways along the sea cliffs provided unparalleled views of the Mediterranean. Even better was the small secluded beach Dr. Osborn led us to, where the water was clearer and cleaner than the main beach. There’s a certain magic about the water that has come to claim my affection, and spending a good hour and a half beside the water in Positano definitely helped it along. As I said before, I’m a more nature-oriented person, and Positano certainly had more of this than Amalfi.


Top 10 sites to follow...

Rome: The Last Days

All things come to an end. Nothing is forever. We are here for but a short time. We have finals and then we leave our beloved city of Rome. 'Tis sad, I know, but our memory of the world we've left behind will stay with us. No heart goes untouched by Rome's hands.

Before the madness of finals beset us, we visited Rome for the last time as a group. We split ways, visiting some last-minute sites we'd not seen yet. I went on my own, venturing off to visit Santa Maria della Pace where St. Josemaria Escriva is buried. The front of the church appeared closed, and no one seemed to be nearby. Not seeing his tomb would be such a disappointment. Just as I was about to give up, a priest (who looked like he might be from Opus Dei) walked past. I stopped him and asked in my best Italian if the church was closed. We somehow switched to speaking Spanish and he directed me to the side door to where the Women's center attached to the church. I thanked him and after taking a few steps and looking back, he'd disappeared. He may have been Josemaria in disguise, maybe a fast walker, but he was definitely providential since I rang the bell to the door that the priest had indicated and I was greeted by a numerary. We were able to communicate in Spanish (even though mine is moderate, not perfect), and I was eventually passed up to a numerary who spoke a decent amount of English. I was given a tour of the place and was privileged to see the tombs of Carmen (St. Josemaria's sister), Dora (the first numerary assistant), and Alvaro del Portillo (the first successor of Josemaria). Afterwards, I visited the actual church where St. Josemaria was buried and prayed there for a short while. I'm sincerely glad I made this trip.

On my way back to find the church where some of the UD students were being confirmed, I got lost. The Mass was optional, so it wasn't all that bad that I'd missed it, but I still wish I could have gone. Still, I was able to see some of the beautiful Christmas lights of Rome. Rome actually has a nice night life which I had never experienced until now. I did make it to to dinner on time though. Genuine Italian pizza was a great way to say goodbye to Rome. Some of us left early to get some studying in for the upcoming finals, so I won't ever know what desert was. Oh well...on to the expansion of my brain capacity and I.Q. for the next few days. My motto/theme for finals? Wreck-It Ralph's famous phrase: "I'M GONNA WRECK IT!"

Final #1 - People & Places
I don't know why I stressed out about this single credit, pass/fail class. I'd paid plenty good attention to the lectures and I'd read and re-read the material for those classes. I guess I just stress out over everything. This exam turned out to be a breeze and thankfully I passed it. I still could have used that extra hour and a half it took me to take that final to study for Philosophy...

Final #2 - Philosophy of Man
This was the first of the scary tests. Then again, it wasn't all that bad since I'd studied my brains out for two days before the final. I understood it as I wrote it out, freezing up on a couple of occasions, but not for longer than thirty seconds. More often than not, my brain was running faster than my pencil. By the end of the long essay, I really felt like I'd grasped the concept.

Final #3 - Western Theological Traditions
Second scary test! Well, not scary, but I didn't feel as ready for it as I could have been. Stressing out about it beforehand gave me some relief during the test since it asked more questions that I was familiar with than not. I actually felt pretty good about it once it was over.

Final #4 - Literary Traditions III
Okay, I think this was turned out to be the scariest test in the end. I'd spent so much time studying for the previous two exams and was so wiped out that I didn't have enough time to study for the quote ID section of the exam, though I knew the plots and the outlines. Some of the quote IDs were so difficult I had to guess after reading then nearly a dozen times, leaving them and returning to them again. We'd already been given the essay prompts by Dr. Osborn two days before, so the essay portion was a lot easier, especially since we'd had enough time to prep for it. Overall, it was kind of a "meh" final, but I still felt more or less good about it, especially good on the essay.

Final #5 - Art & Architecture of Rome
This final was like eating candy. It was actually quite relaxing and really fun to take as I had completely mastered all of the slides, and the 60 questions were more like fun trivia questions, only two or three of which I felt a little shaky on. The final essay question was a kind of "choose your piece from the given slides" which was really nice. If there's one exam I KNOW without a shadow of a doubt that I did well on, it was this one.

*almost able to breathe properly now*

Final #6 - Western Civilization I
This was the do or die exam. I'd prepared well for the essay section of the exam, but I didn't have all my dates down well. The night before the exam, I stayed up with a few other students as they wrote out a timeline on the white board. I listened and paid as much attention as I could. I dozed off every once in awhile, avoiding looking at the clock so I wouldn't remind myself of how exhausted I was. I eventually fell asleep on the floor with my backpack as my makeshift pillow at around what I would guess to be 4am. I woke up shortly before 7am to find the imprint of my backpack zipper streaked across my face, the white board covered with dates, names, time lines, and the words "Jesus I trust in You" written in the corner which made me smile as I saw everyone sprawled out on the floor asleep. They sirred shortly after I did and one of them asked, "Did we finish?" Yeah, I think we were all ready for this to be over. The test wasn't all that bad actually. It could have been way worse, but most of the questions asked were of people and places with which I was familiar. The essay questions were pretty easy too, thanks to my preparation. Towards the end of the exam, as the first people were beginning to turn in their finals, one student who finished went outside and he shouted a long, loud "YEEEAAAAAAHHHHH!!!" which induced an eruption of laughter from the rest of us test-takers. Needless to say, we were all joyous upon the completion of our last hurdle. Even the sun broke through the clouds as if on cue.

After spending the rest of the day packing, turning in books and room checks, all of which was followed by a tornadic, ice-cold hail/rain storm (sans tornadoes thank God), we had a closing Mass and a closing convocation where Dr. Hatlie, the director of the program, announced our class name. Every semester class is given a class name which describes what the class was like. Last spring's class was called "The Class for All Seasons" because they dealt with every kind of weather imaginable, from sunny summer weather to snowy winter weather. Our class name? The Uncharacteristic Class. Sure, lots of students were pretty upset about this. It sounded pretty unflattering. I, for one, agreed with the class name, thinking that many of the students (though not all) were pretty shallow in character. I think many party-ers tend to be like that. Dr. Hatlie explained that the reason he called us the Uncharacteristic Class was primarily because neither he nor the staff knew what to make of the students. The students left the faculty thinking "Who are these guys?" I couldn't agree more with them. However, it was not meant to be taken so negatively. Dr. Hatlie explained that the idea of "Uncharacteristic" had more of a meaning of unpredictability. One day the students were angelically good and obedient, and then next day they were rogue party monsters.

I kind of wish I wasn't stuck with the class that had this name, but in some ways the class name provoked me to think about my own character. Now that I thought about it, I am a bit strange in that some people don't know what to make of me, whether I'm a sweet, big-hearted philanthropist or a cold, quiet, and recluse loner. It's like a split personality, and I never know which one is going to surface. I guess that can be pretty "uncharacteristic," huh? I guess I lived up to the name to a degree. But I still got to thinking how my character had evolved over the course of the semester. Looking back, I'd definitely come a long way since I'd first arrived in Rome. I'd learned a great deal about myself on both the good and bad terms, and I'd overcome some of my previous fears (or at least started to overcome them). What matters is that I pull a lesson from the naming of this class, and I believe I have.

A sit-down dinner followed the closing convocation where a group of Italian musicians and singers comparable to Mariachis came and performed for us. They had us dancing and singing along. Then for desert the kitchen crew brought out a huge platter of custard-filled cream puffs drizzled with chocolate. The sound of fireworks outside interrupted our cheers and we raced outside to see Nino, the head chef, lighting fireworks for us. The display lasted a few minutes. It was so touching that they had done something like this for us. I think many of us teared up if we didn't get lumps in our throats.

After desert and more music, we headed into the Aula Magna (the big classroom where we've always met for meetings and such) and the awards ceremony began. Special gifts were given to the SAs (Student Assistants) who'd worked so hard in keeping the rules of the campus enforced when the RAs were not around. Then the awards were passed out to two people in each category: the Spirit Award and the Rome Award.

1) The Spirit Award, presented by the Rome VP Ryan Reedy, was given to Karen Bless and Luke Sterns who both exemplified the spirit of the Rome program in their participation of campus life/activities and how they made the community the best that it could be. Both winners really deserved their prizes and titles.

2) The Rome Award, presented by our Art & Arch. instructor Dr. Lisot, was given to Michelle DeRoche and me, each for specific reasons, but both of us exhibiting an intense appreciation for Rome and visiting it often. In specifics, Michelle won her award for her frequent visits to Rome and seeing all there was to see. She was literally there all the time and I don't think she ever missed a site. As for me, I received the Rome award for my expression of appreciation for the sites in Rome based on my discussions with my instructors, and even more prominently in my writings on my blog and art journal. I was really surprised at my winning as I hadn't even been trying to win any particular award. It was even more special that I received the award from Dr. Lisot, with whom I already had a great relationship. I opened my award later which was a book filled with recipes of authentic Italian dishes right from Rome. Great way to carry the taste of Rome back home with me!

Superlative awards were given next (though no material award was handed out this time since nearly half the class received the awards). They were all crazy things like "Most likely to get lost in Rome," "Biggest spender," "Best smile," etc. I halfway expected just one of the superlatives to land on me, and that was the "Most likely to hog the Vonage phone." My response was a shrug and a humble nod acknowledging my fault. I'm not a big phone person, but some of my family members are, so that kept me on a little longer. Moreover, because I'm so far away from home and because I'm doing so many amazing things in Rome, I have much more to talk about and end up chatting up a storm sometimes. But I agreed that I deserved that superlative, bitter-tasting as it might have been. After superlatives came the big slideshow which included pictures from everyone all compiled into one slideshow. It was pretty cool and really sad at the end since we realized that this was it and we would not be doing the Rome semester again. I ended the late night finishing my packing and avoiding the drinkers in their last hours of drinking freedom before returning to the States.

I only caught a couple of hours of sleep before wakeup call early in the morning, eating my last Italian breakfast and saying goodbye to all of the Rome faculty and staff. Unfortunately I didn't get to say goodbye to all of my professors, but I did get to hug Dr. Osborn (and his daughters), Dr. Lisot, and Dr. Hatlie goodbye. The entire faculty and staff waved goodbye as our buses drove off to take us to the airport, a moment which I will remember forever through eyes slightly blurred with tears. After a few hours, shortly before noon, our plane left Roman soil. We would later arrive nearly ten hours later, safely in Philadelphia, PA and I would transfer to San Antonio, TX after a couple of hours, tired but surprisingly without a trace of jet lag (don't ask me how, because I don't know).

But before being frozen in 4-hours' time on the long flight across the Atlantic, I thought back on the memories I had made in Italy -- the splendor, the beauty, the glory of the ancient world. It had waited for me to see it and had left its fingerprints on my heart. The spirit of Rome promised to stay with me wherever I went. A duet sounded in my head, with Sarah Brightman and Andrea Bocelli singing the sad yet beautiful Italian song: Time to say goodbye...

SPECIAL: Art Journal Entries for Art & Arch

The following includes a 9-entry compilation of art journal entries I've saved for my extra credit art journal for my Art & Arch class with Dr. Lisot. These entries include my in-depth thoughts and observation of the art and architecture I encountered while wandering about Rome, Greece, Northern Italy and many other places. Some may be repeats from past posts, but here's all the art-related material in one post. There are so many other places I could have written about, but these were among the greatest highlights. I'm really glad I was able to do this art journal. It made what I already wanted to do more of a "requirement." I wanted to write about all of my experiences with art and was so excited to have been able to have done this. The five extra credit points felt like a high-five for doing what I love. Thank you for the opportunity, Dr. Lisot!

________________________________________

 Entry #1: Capitoline Museum Class Visit
The Capitoline Museum was beyond anything I’d ever expected to see. For me, it embodied the perfect cross between Greek and Roman art as I think that the Greek aesthetic impacted the Romans’ artwork. Due to the great number of Roman sculptures that are copies of earlier Greek sculptures, it seems that the Romans appreciated Greek art and were inspired to carry on the tradition.

Every floor of the Capitoline Museum was like an artist’s playground. Every turn promised something spectacular. One of my favorite rooms was the Palazzo dei Conservatori where we had our Art & Architecture lecture. In that room was the famed bronze Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius, dating back to 175 A.D. Back in the day, when people were destroying statues of the pagan emperors and dictators, it was not melted down because people thought it was a statue of Constantine, the respected emperor who had legalized Christianity. As it turned out, it was actually a statue of Marcus Aurelius. One big hint of this is that statues of Constantine usually depict him as a beardless man, but the man on this statue has a full beard. He was pretty fortunate to have escaped demolition. I had studied this statue previously in our Art & Arch I class back in Irving for freshman year, but to see it now was absolutely mind-blowing. Just looking at the statue made me marvel at how much detail can go into bronze.

Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius

I thought similarly of the Etruscan bronze She-Wolf (500 B.C.) located just a few paces away. The patterns and textures of the fur, particularly around the neck, were among the most exquisite I’d ever seen in a bronze sculpture. I could even see the ribs underneath the skin of the She-Wolf. It was very admirable to see how much care the artist put into the sculpture, making a piece of bronze look so believable. Although the Romulus and Remus statues beneath the She-Wolf were made in the late fifteenth century by Pollaiolo, they fit into the piece very well. It’s pretty incredible how something so simple became the symbol of Rome.

She-Wolf

Another notable statue that I actually found to be pretty funny was the marble bust of Commodus as Hercules. I find it funny because Commodus, who was a real airhead of an emperor, is depicting himself as the mighty Hercules even though his character is nowhere near the level of nobility of Hercules. I guess it shows how a guy who knows that his reputation is shaky will do everything he can to paint an idealized image of himself. In Commodus’ case, he was trying to win over the people of Rome by depicting himself as Hercules. Try all you like, Commodus. The truth is always triumphant in the end, so making yourself out to be Hercules will not help you. Still, I will not deny the masterful craftsmanship that appears in this sculpture. I love the detail that shows up in Commodus’ hair and beard. Hair is something I would like to master in my drawing skills, so I think that looking at sculpture is a good way for a beginner to learn basic textures for drawing.

 

Commodus as Hercules

My absolute favorite part of the museum was the Palazzo Nuovo which was lined with nothing but marble statues. It was in one of these rooms that I finally met the Hellenistic Dying Gaul (230 B.C.) He was incredibly made, life size, and the pose was very convincing. I really admired how his weight was distributed and how his muscles suggested that he was summoning the last of his strength to take his final breaths. It seems that the artist intended the Gaul’s facial expression to provoke feelings of sympathy from the viewer as they watch him fade. And you know what, it worked. I could almost see the Gaul taking his final breath and prepare to collapse forward in a twisted position.
 

Dying Gaul

This and many of the other sculptures inspired me to learn and master the art of drawing the human figure. I can hardly wait to do so when I get back home!

________________________________________

 

Entry #2: Ara Pacis Class Visit
 

Ah yes, the famous Ara Pacis on the field of Mars. Augustus really had taste! This altar had some really amazing reliefs, some areas of which contained such small detail I would have missed it had Dr. Lisot not pointed it out, like the baby bird jumping out of the next to escape the snake. The three big panels on there included Aeneas’ sacrifice, the family line of Augustus, and my favorite panel, Tellus, the earth goddess with presumably Romulus and Remus seated on her lap with two nymphs flanking her and a cow and sheep at her feet. I think I’ve come to like organic-themed art since this one captured my interest so quickly. Here goes the formal analysis…

Tellus Panel

________________________________________

Entry #3: The Temples in Paestum

After our trip along the Amalfi coast, we made a visit to the Archeological site of Paestum where we visited Temple of Hera I and II. They look even bigger and better in real life than they did in the textbook. Both temples were very similar in that they had Doric columns, but Temple of Hera II actually had an entablature, metopes and friezes. It’s really amazing at how well-preserved these temples are. They have so much detail left in them. I could almost see the ancient Romans going in and out of the temples, worshiping the cult statues.

 

Following a few on-site lectures and lots of pictures, we were able to visit the Paestum Archaeological Museum and saw more ancient artifacts. It was really something.

________________________________________

Entry #4: The Cappuccin Bone Church

A couple of my friends and I went into Rome with no particular plan except to explore. Turns out as soon as we came out of the metro at the Palazzo Barberini, we arrived right in front of the Museum of the Cappuccin Monks and the Bone Crypt. On a whim, decided to go check it out. The museum featured paintings, artifacts and histories of the Cappuccin monks. The paintings in particular captured the poverty, piety and love of the Cappuccins. Many of them featured monks holding crucifixes, or gazing heavenward in contemplation, maybe with an open book (most likely the Bible) in hand. Everything was just breathtaking, and the stories of these monks, many of whom are saints, were just beautiful. My particular favorite was the famous St. Padre Pio.

The highlight of it all was the Crypt of Bones, which felt like a dimension all its own. The entire crypt was decorated with the bones of the deceased Cappuccin monks. As eerie, gross and creepy as it may sound initially, it was actually a very cosmic, peaceful experience. I was probably just as slack-jawed as I was in St. Peter’s (these Catholic places are really good at doing that to you). The crypt made me realize how dead to the world these monks were and how the life in this world is passing and has no comparison to the spiritual, eternal life that awaits us after death. The experience of seeing all those bones will serve as a reminder that we must be dead to the world, live in the world, and never be of the world and devote ourselves to the service of God, regardless of our personal vocation in the world.

Bone Crypt of the Cappuccin Monks

________________________________________

Entry #5: Best of Greece

Before leaving Italy, we made a visit to St. Nicholas’ relics (yes, THE Santa) located in a lovely church in Bari. Let’s stop to smell the flowers for a moment, literally! Phenomenon goes that if you go up to where St. Nicholas’ relics are kept and take a sniff, you’ll smell roses. No one knows exactly why. Sure enough, that’s exactly what we smelled. Pretty miraculous! Another really cool painting was in the crypt, which featured St. Nicholas smacking Airus during the council.

The next day, after arriving in Greece by boat, we visited Dodona, an archaeological site with a theater and several temples (or at least their remaining foundations), including a temple to Hercules and I believe there was one to Hera and to Venus. We stopped for lunch in Metsovo before moving on to Meteora, where visited an orthodox monastery. This monastery, along with at least for or five others, are nestled safely atop some unbelievable cliffs. You’ve never, and I mean NEVER, seen cliffs like these. It was so peaceful there and the sound of the wind in the cliffs was unlike any wind I’d ever heard. I think most of us left that place thinking, “I want to be a monk/nun.”

We spend the remainder of the following day (half of it was traveling) in the amazing city of Delphi. We explored the historical sites on Mount Parnassus, including the temple to Apollo where the Pythia herself would sit, inhale the vapors coming out of the ground (those weren’t there anymore), and give the oracle of the god Apollo. The size of the temples surprised me as I was not expecting them to be so huge. I think that Delphi’s archaeological site was the perfect compilation of all the types of architecture in the ancient Greek world.

 

The next morning visited the museum in Delphi where we saw lots of archaic and some classical sculpture and artwork. We left Delphi and moved on to Athens, but not before stopping at Hosios Loukas, an Eastern Orthodox Monastery. If there was one lesson we learned about the difference between the Eastern and Western parts of the Catholic Church on that trip, it was in 3 words by Fr. Thomas: East. West. Schism! It was great. It was incredible exploring the church with Byzantine-esque mosaics with golden tesserae. Within the iconography, we learned how the positioning of the fingers of Christ’s blessing hand represented his two divine natures (divine and man) and the trinity. The Eastern churches really have some of the most exquisite mosaics I’ve ever seen.

Later that same day we arrived in Athens, where we visited the Pnyx and the Areopagus, where I was able to participate in a student reenactment of a section of Aeschylus’ greek Tragedy, Eumenides (lines 674-807 if you’re interested). I played the part of Orestes. The view of Athens was stunning from our high-up location. The next day we explored the Agora temples, Hephaestus’ temple, where the Greek hero Theseus is supposedly buried. Our whole class successfully made a human chain around it. We continued on to the Agora Museum to check out all of the ancient pottery, which included a whole variety of red figure and black figure techniques as well as geometric techniques. Next came the Acropolis where we visited the oh-so-famous Parthenon, and the theater of Dionysus. I have to say it was pretty epic standing so close to such an amazing building, even if a lot of it was restored. Even to think for a moment that the olive tree of Athena was still preserved was just mind blowing. I think it was at this point in the Greece trip that I actually believed for a moment that the ancient gods and goddesses may have actually existed (although under the authority of God almighty).

The next day we visited the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, which featured some of the most incredible Greek artwork you’ve ever seen, including some familiar faces and places I’d studied back in Irving, like the Zeus/Poseidon bronze sculpture (who has really amazing arms that I want to integrate into a formal painting or drawing sometime in the future), and the Spring Fresco. This was the ancient artist’s playground! So many amazing pieces to look at. I swept through the entire museum in about 2 hours time, which is simply not enough time to enjoy everything. It was so sad whizzing through so many amazing rooms, but I did stop every once in awhile to stop and gaze at my favorite pieces. Ancient art never ceases to amaze me. After that trip, we moved on to Mycenae and visited the Lion’s Gate and Tomb of Clytemnestra. That, next to Delphi, was probably one of my most favorite archaeological sites of the visit. The view from the top of the site was, once again, jaw dropping. No wonder Agamemnon chose this site for his headquarters. The beehive-shaped tombs were pretty amazing as well. I was astonished at the acoustics in there, because as two of the students were beginning part of their re-enactment of Aristophanes’ The Frogs, it sounded as if we had a high quality sound system in there as their voices carried along the curves of the tomb. It was a great place to watch a play.

 

After staying in Napflion overnight, we visited the archeological site of Epidaurus a half hour drive away, the site of the Sanctuary of Asclepius the god of healing in the ancient Greek world and home to the extremely famous theater of Epidaurus. In this huge theater which seats…oh, I think it was something like 50,000 people, there is a disc in the center of the gravely stage on the ground and if you stand on that disc, tilt your head up and speak, the result is phenomenal. Your voice carries perfectly through the entire theater so that every seat can hear you and you can even hear your own voice bounce back at you, not like a super delayed echo, but like a slight microphone echo, but cooler! Why? Because you don’t need a microphone to sound cool in Epidaurus! I didn’t know what to say, so since it was still morning time I stuck with the morning greeting in Greek: “Kalimera!” That was about the coolest thing ever, hearing my voice jump right back to me. My reaction was pretty priceless too. I quickly and shyly walked away from the disc with my hand over my mouth and my eyes wide open, “Whoa! That was incredible,” was all I could say. The symmetry of the theater was gorgeous and it was in considerably good shape given its age. I’d love to go back and holler there again.

Before leaving Napflion the next day, we stopped to visit Alexander the Great’s Palamede Fortress overlooking the sea and Nafplion. It’s a great place for pictures and lots of cool steps and tunnels. We even found a cramped stone dungeon which we easily fit into, but it was horribly stuffy in there. It must have been absolutely miserable for the prisoners there. Outside on the ramparts, several times, I pictured Alexander the Great’s guards stationed in the various watch towers and posts along the edges of the fortress and wondered what their day would have been like, looking over the land and sea day after day.

When we arrived in Olympia that same day, we visited the Archaeological museum there for awhile and it was really great. It was incredible to see the curse on the house of Atrius come to life on what used to be in the pediments of these grand temples. It was especially interesting because that was what we had been studying for Lit. Trad. III. I’m really going to miss seeing all this amazing artwork in real life.

__________________________________________

 

Entry #6: Colosseum Class Visit

At last! I’ve come to one of the most historical icons of Rome: The Colosseum (a.k.a. Flavian Amphitheater), built by one of the Flavians, namely Vespasian, dating back to the 70-80 A.D. It wasn’t as big as I originally thought it would be, but it was, nevertheless, HUGE! As Dr. Lisot gave us our Art & Arch lecture on the history of the Colosseum, I scanned the expanse of the Colosseum, imagining hundreds of thousands of Roman citizens sitting in the bleachers, screaming and cheering at the tops of their lungs, thirsting for the sport of blood. It must have been an incredibly wild madhouse.

 

From where our class stood in the amphitheater, it seems that from the point of view of the raving audience, the gladiators and animals far below would have appeared to be the size of ants. It made me appreciate the huge TV screens that we have at concerts and basketball games so that we can see the performers up close. From the center of the amphitheater, however, a gladiator must have felt a rush of thrill upon stepping out to see the roaring crowds. This moment would determine either the glory of victory or the humiliation of defeat. I can only imagine the pressure that was added by the crowd’s roars while a gladiator was in combat. On the other hand, if there had been a Christian who was about to be martyred, he or she might humanly feel an initial surge of fear, but by the grace of God, they would be able to die willingly and peacefully, knowing that their witness to Christ would be an example to all the onlookers. It makes me wonder how many conversions to Christianity may have taken place in the Colosseum. Maybe the conversions had not been immediate, but God’s grace can always work in a person’s heart over time.

Looking at the Colosseum, I wonder what the acoustics must have been like during its prime. I was tempted to test out current acoustics with a holler, but I kept my peace. I took a closer look at the architecture, noting the triangular brick wedges used with the cement, which was a fairly new Roman invention, consisting of a mixture of sand, soil and water. The building pattern was unlike anything I’d ever seen used in architecture, but it was interesting. For it to have lasted so many years without falling apart is phenomenal.

Brick detail inside the Colosseum

The outside of the Colosseum was, of course, my favorite part. The care put into the building of this architectural wonder was evident. One thing I found particularly interesting about it (something I had discovered on my own) was that it had every type of column on it. At the bottom were the Doric order, second level were the Ionic order, third level were the Corinthian, and on the fourth level were the engaged Corinthian pilaster columns. It made me think of the evolution of the column over the years, with the Doric being on the simplest column, and the Corinthian being the highest, most sophisticated column. In a way, it corresponded to the advancement of the Roman Empire over the years.

The Colosseum

Vespasian’s architectural feat remains as one of my all-time favorite monuments of the ancient world. It serves as a personal reminder for me to turn every piece of art I make into something memorable and beautiful. Thanks for the inspiration, Vespasian!

________________________________________

Entry #7: Vatican Museum Class Trip

Oh, where to begin with the Vatican Museum? So much to see, so little time. Actually, a surprising number of items we were studying in Art & Arch were kept at the Vatican Museum. Since there were so many and I have limited time to discuss them, I will mention just a few:

Laocoön

So, here is Michelangelo’s big inspiration/eureka for his artistic career. I’d have to agree with him on this one (but I still have a special love for his David). Laocoö n and his sons are definitely one of the best pieces of Classical sculpture that I’ve ever seen, especially in that twisting torso of Laocoö n himself. Really, his entire anatomy is brilliantly done as every muscle is contracting in response to the strain and the pain of the snake’s bite. Similarly are his sons as they helplessly struggle to free themselves from the coils of the snake as it wraps itself about their bodies. I like how the snake’s long body keeps the viewer’s eye moving about the sculpture, holding their interest. Even so, I have to feel sorry for Laocoö n and his sons, especially when their faces express so much pain and terror. Then again, they did mock the gods, so I guess they deserved it. Anyway, due to time constraints, I am unable to sketch the Laocoö n right now, but rest assured, I will do so the minute the fall semester is over. I will bring the memory of Rome back home with me by drawing every Classical sculpture I can find with Laocoö n at the top of the list. I can hardly wait!

 

Laocoön

School of Athens: Ah, now here’s a favorite! Every time I look at Raphael’s School of Athens (1509-11), I get all excited and inspired to learn and study. I mean, all of the coolest people in history are all together in this painting at the same time. If I could equate this to contemporary times, it would be something like Comic Con, where there is a mega-mashup of all of the character in all of the movies, books and videogames in existence. From a UD perspective though, this is even better! I like how busy the fresco is, with the hustling and bustling of all of these brilliant minds, all talking and debating with each other the way UD students usually do. There’s a perfect mix of teaching and learning going on throughout the image, which is why I find it so inspiring. An interesting thing I noted when observing this for the first time in real life at the Stanza della Segnatura was that there was a man leaning casually against the right wall (on Aristotle’s side), with one leg crossed over the other knee as he jots something down in his book. This was definitely an unexpected pose for a scene like this, but still, I like how studious the whole image feels.

School of Athens

Sistine Chapel

Last Judgment: I don’t know what Michelangelo was saying when he said that he wasn’t a painter. His paintings had my jaw on the floor. As requested by Dr. Lisot, when I first walked into the Sistine Chapel, I looked over my shoulder and up at the massive Last Judgment (1533-41) fresco that covered the wall where the altar was located. It was even bigger and grander than I had imagined. It captured the awesomeness of Our Lord and the chaos of the division between the souls worthy of heaven and the souls doomed for eternal fire in hell. The whole fresco made me feel very small and it was really overwhelming, but I think that Michelangelo intended for both to be the case as a reminder to the viewer of how small they are in comparison to the glory of God and of what everyone will have to face at the end of time.

Sistine Chapel Ceiling (1508-12): This was particularly brilliant! The figures looked so three-dimensional, they literally popped out of the ceiling. No photo or print could capture the true beauty and colors of the paintings. My favorite fresco was the Creation of Adam. It seems to illustrate the intimate relationship God has with all of his created ones. Actually, the depictions of the early Old Testament, especially the ones of the Creation and Adam and Eve, made me think about how amazing it is that we are made in the image of God and of how unfathomable His love is for us. He made the world for us, he made us who we are, and he made Michelangelo a master in painting. I love how all these things connect! After seeing the Sistine Chapel, I’ve found that my Catholic Faith makes me appreciate art more (especially pieces like this), and that art enhances my love for my Faith. The whole Sistine Chapel experience was not to be missed! It was a spectacular ending to a great afternoon at the Vatican Museum.

________________________________________

 

Entry #8: Accademia Class Visit in Florence, Italy

So I’ve always marveled at Michelangelo’s sculptures, even when I was a kid. To me, his work expresses artistic beauty in its rawest form and his sculpture David (1501-04) is the pinnacle of that beauty. I’d already been familiar with dozens of pictures of David, but when I first saw him in real life at the Accademia in Florence, Italy, I was blown away by how much more glorious he looked. He was everything I’d expected and more.

David was absolutely magnificent to behold. He had an idealized body with perfect proportions and anatomy. His skin, though marble, appeared smooth and soft to the touch. A shocking amount of detail had been employed into the sculpture. The muscles throughout his body could be seen through his flesh, all firm and tense as he prepared to face the invisible Goliath. Based on past sculptures and paintings by Michelangelo, it seems evident that Michelangelo’s favorite part of the body to carve was the torso. He has included a great deal of detail in David’s torso, ensuring that no muscle is overlooked. His arms and legs, though muscular, have beautiful curves. Even the bone joints in his elbows, knees, wrists, ankles, and fingers can be made out. His body is so tense with anticipation that his tendons are visible through his skin, especially in his neck and hands, which are incredibly large when compared with his face. I was most surprised to discover the pulsing veins in his large hands. That completely blew me away. The detail on David is unbelievable! I mean, I could literally see the energy building up, almost as if the statue were about to move.

 

David (Michelangelo)

I had never looked closely at David’s facial expression until this visit to the Accademia. Just as Michelangelo would employ “terribilita” (a face that expressed awesomeness and fierceness so as to almost strike fear into the viewer) into his God figure in the Sistine Chapel just a few years later, he used it here on David’s face. Even from my place far below, it was difficult to make out the fullness of the expression, but when I saw a more eye-leveled view on a postcard in the gift shop, I was amazed at how intense Michelangelo had made David’s face.

David (face detail)

I think of Michelangelo’s David as the pinnacle of perfection in the human figure (sorry, Laocoö n). It has been my ultimate inspiration for my desire to master the art of drawing the human figure. I am still awestruck at Michelangelo’s craft every time I see this sculpture. Furthermore, the piece revealed the splendor of the human body and how beautiful and sacred God created it. Michelangelo certainly understood this and frankly, I believe it too. Don’t let any other giggling student tell you otherwise because they obviously haven’t seen the piece through the lens of God and art. Still, to this day, it is a wondrous marvel at how one man could have sculpted something so perfect. I aspire ever higher…

________________________________________

 

Entry #9: Villa Borghese Class Trip

The Borghese trip was probably among my most anticipated class trips of the semester (nice way to end it too). Why? Bernini’s works are there! Since my section’s lecture was going last, I decided to explore the Borghese using the guide Dr. Lisot gave us. It’s a beautiful gallery lined with dozens upon dozens of paintings and sculptures. Naturally, the Caravaggio and Raphael paintings were my favorites. The highlights of the museum were the sculptures by Bernini.

I first saw Bernini’s life-size marble rendition of David (1623). Bernini’s technique was flawless. He had captured the moment when David was reeling back, twisting his body and pulling his slingshot taut in preparation to slay Goliath. David was well-proportioned and idealized to perfection. Every inch of his body revealed his tense muscles, which reminded me of Michelangelo’s David, only this time, a great deal of action was taking place. That’s what I like about Bernini’s sculptures: they all have a sense of motion so that you almost expect the figure to make their next move. In this piece, it literally looked like David was taking a sidestep forward and was having to pull against the opposing force of his slingshot. The line and texture used in his wavy hair added to that sense of forward motion. Speaking of textures, the armor that was placed behind David’s right leg contained beautiful textures as did his harp. David’s facial expression was just awesome! The faces I usually see in sculpture are plain and relaxed, filled with sorrow or pain, or else they are happy. I’ve run into very few angry or determined faces. This one definitely shines brightest in my book. Another likable thing about Bernini’s sculptures is that you have to walk around them to appreciate them in their entirety. I must have circled this piece at least three or four times, walking slower and slower each time to appreciate the beauty of this piece.

David (Bernini)

Heading into the next room, I ran into Bernini’s incredible Apollo and Daphne (1622). Just when I thought I’d seen the best that Baroque-style sculpture had to offer (I’d also seen his Ecstasy of St. Teresa at Santa Maria della Victoria), I was proven wrong. Apollo and Daphne took my breath away. Bernini brought the mythological scene of Daphne being turned into a tree and Apollo chasing her to life. He had captured the moment when Daphne is beginning to sprout leaves, roots and have tree bark envelop her body while Apollo pursues her from behind, swinging an arm around and catching her by the waist/belly. Again, I love the sense of motion incorporated into the sculpture. Both figures have a forward action while things like hair and cloth fly backward. There was a sense of twisting and ascending into the air, even though the piece was grounded. Bernini really captured the human form beautifully on both figures and gave a gorgeous contrast on how he depicts a young male and female form in one piece.

Apollo and Daphne

The amount of detail incorporated into this sculpture was not to be believed. The individual leaves and the billowing cloak on Apollo were all so thin, I could see the light shining right through them. Those particular sections of the piece looked so dainty and fragile that I expected to find areas where the leaves had been broken off. I found none. How could it be possible for such a piece to survive for so many years without suffering any loss? And even more extraordinary is the fact that the entire piece was constructed out of one piece of marble. ONE PIECE! How is that even possible with all of the detail? And Bernini was in his mid-twenties when he sculpted this! I’m sorry Michelangelo. You have some really phenomenal sculptures, but Bernini just raised the bar with this piece. This one is going down in history to be one of my all-time favorite sculptures.

Oh, but things just got better in the next room in which Dr. Lisot gave the lecture on Bernini’s Rape of Proserpine (Pluto and Persephone) (1621). What an incredible piece! The action…the drama…the realistic flesh…it was by far (alongside Apollo and Daphne) the most advanced sculpture I had ever encountered. Once again, sculpting from a single piece of marble, Bernini had caught the figures right in the middle of the action, with Pluto gleefully swiping a frightened Persephone off her feet as she pushes vainly against him to get away. Even Cerberus, the three-headed hound of the underworld was there, although he was much less menacing than Pluto. As in all of the previous Bernini pieces, the detail employed into the piece was masterfully done. I could make out every powerful muscle in Pluto’s body and the flailing hair of Persephone. Like Apollo and Daphne, there was a sense of twisting in the sculpture, with the turning of Pluto’s torso, the tossing back of Persephone’s head, her flailing arms, her hair, and even the flying fabric, which even made a kind of corkscrewed twist on the back view of the piece. This particular piece employed so much detail in emotional expression, particularly in Persephone’s face. I saw the open-mouthed expression of fear and despair consume her young face. Even a tear spilled from her eye. I found myself moved with pity for Persephone, who had never known such evil until now. It even made me angry at Pluto for destroying the innocent girl’s virginity.

Rape of Proserpine (Pluto and Persephone)

One particular spot that I just marveled at was the area where Pluto’s hands are grasping Persephone’s thigh and waist. The muscles in his hands are very convincing, but even more convincing is the way Bernini made his fingers appear to sink into the softness of Persephone’s skin. Even when I re-angled myself, Pluto’s fingers began to disappear into her thigh as it would if it were real flesh. I consider this a divine feat on Bernini’s part. And he was only twenty-three when he sculpted this? I’d imagine that he must have had the help of angels as the illuminators did with the Book of Kells. This seems too perfect to be the work of man’s hands. If there were Seven Wonders of the World in art, this sculpture would definitely claim a space in my book, as would Apollo and Daphne. I could go on an on, praising Bernini’s work…
 

Rape of Proserpine (detail)

As it was with Michelangelo’s David, Bernini’s work inspired me to reaching an even higher level of perfection in mastering the human figure. But to sculpt like Bernini, it seems unreachable. That doesn’t mean I can’t try. All things considered, Bernini just might be the greatest sculptor of all time!